French hood

The French hood was a crescent-shaped headdress with a veil worn in the 16th century.

History and construction
The French hood first became popular in the early 16th century. Anne Boleyn is often credited with popularising it in England, although there is evidence it was worn before she became queen. The hood curved around the head and was decorated with jewels or pearls at the edges, which were known as billaments. There was a pleated ribbon at its base, which was usually gold, and the veil attached to the back was always black. However, there is evidence that children sometimes wore a snood instead of a veil. The French hood occasionally matched the wearer’s gown, but the vast majority were black.

The shape of the French hood evolved over time. During the 1520s, when it first became popular in England, it followed the shape of the head, but by the 1540s, it had become more curved, allowing hair to be pulled forwards in poufs. Mary I wore a flatter shape in the 1550s, which was fashionable amongst the nobility at that time. By Elizabeth’s reign, the French hood had shrunk considerably and sat further back on the head. It was not always worn with a veil by this point.

It is unknown how the hood stayed on the head. Some portraits show a strap underneath the chin, whereas some have no strap. This could be due to artistic license or could perhaps show a different method of construction.